Material Choices:
Before getting too far into the details of your frame design, it is
worthwhile to take a trip to the nearest metal supply house. I was fortunate in having full service nearby
in Irvine, California. The cost of metal
is not going to be the most
significant cost in your project. The
cost of welding, suspension components and wheels are much more significant.
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I found that metals were stocked and sold in
specific sizes and lengths. Many metal
plates of varying thickness are stocked in precut sizes (4 x 4, 6 x 6, 10 x10,
12 x 12 inches, etc.). Metal strapping
also comes in prescribed widths (¾”, 1”, 1-½”, etc.). Suffice it to say that designing elements
that closely match the standard sizes stocked minimizes the amount of cutting
necessary and saves a great deal of time.
By being judicious, I ended up with hardly any leftover scrap metal.
A walk through the supply house will also familiarize you with the “remnants bin” where you can pick up
those small pieces of metal that my otherwise are only sold in 10 foot
lengths. Also take a look at the
inexpensive abrasive cutoff wheels suitable for a hand held grinder. I cut all of my frame elements using such a
tool. You’ll also find a small abrasive
grinding disk useful for cleaning and beveling joints that are to be welded.
It was at the supply house that I came
across the perforated steel sheets and the performed edging that I used for the
outrigger frame platform. This platform
is not necessary but I liked the more finished look it provided to the end
product.
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When it came to connectors, I relied on my
auto restoration expert, Ray Miller and selected only quality Grade 8 nuts and
bolts. These are somewhat more expensive
but they are strong and corrosion resistant.
Again I was fortunate in having McFadden-Dale
Industrial Hardware nearby in Santa Ana, California. They seem to have every version of every bolt
and connector ever made!
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